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Items of underwear commonly worn by women today include brassieres (bras) and panties (also known as knickers), while men wear briefs, trunks, boxer shorts or boxer briefs. Items worn by both women and men include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts, bikini underwear, thongs and G-strings.
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Teddies were usually made of silk or satin, and in mass produced terms silky polyesters and crêpe-de-chine fabrics. They offered little or no bra or tummy control support, but were luxury lingerie items. The body beneath was supposed to be already perfectly sculpted from 'feel the burn' gym workouts. The Teddies almost always fastened beneath the legs with press studs or hooks and bars.

Changes in outer clothes and in underwear had begun prior to World War 1. The war simply accelerated and developed new ideas as war always does. The number of layers of clothes on the body was gradually being reduced as the 20 th century progressed.

War work had emphasised the fact that for an active life, women needed more freedom of movement and so gradually as freer movement became an ideal under clothing began to match it. Female undergarments began to contract. By the brassiere gained mass popularity and thinner lighter weight fabrics used for knickers and a simple camisole top that could button to the knickers meant that often this was all a woman wore beneath a lined garment.

This was all in complete contrast to the body of heavy underclothes worn only 50 years previously. Top clothing changed to the extent that the skin itself became fabric. Previously much of the body had been covered, but nude limbs now acted almost like a fabric , even more so once it became fashionable to enhance skin with a suntan thus bringing the ability to change even the hue of flesh as climatic conditions allowed.

As the top outer garments were by then little more than a single layer dress or suit, the underwear needed to feel smoother for comfort. A scratchy wool top garment was more likely to irritate and chafe the skin beneath with fewer layers of undergarments. Left - The ultimate in chic undies - smoother underwear for smoother top clothes.

Catalogue Underwear of The smoother fabric that proved ideal at this point was artificial silk made from rayon. It was known then as art silk.

Simply put, artificial silk was made from a complex process of putting wood cellulose chips into chemicals for several days until that created a viscous solution. The solution then called viscose was thick enough to be extruded into a wet bath of more chemicals and it solidified on contact with the chemical bath.

It left behind an artificially regenerated man made fibre that set on contact with the chemicals. Further treatments helped create a whole range of fibre variations as the century progressed. Artificial silk was affordable and available to all classes. The name of knickers changed in the s.

In knickers became known as panties and by they were called panty briefs. The underwear became smoother in line and this was an essential necessity under the new slinkier bias cut garments of the s. The length of knickers varied with the fashions. By they reached far above the knee, but so then did the top skirts! Once skirts were longer, knickers ended just above the knee again. By panties were tailored to fit the body contours giving a very smooth line and a style we would recognise today.

Silk and merino was a desirable mix for absorbent underwear. Art silk remained popular, but in the s and s many pants were either made of cotton which could be boiled, or made of silk and kept to be worn for special occasions. Nylon polyamide was also a major player in the development of modern underwear. It was heavily promoted as easy launder since it dried far faster than rayon or cotton products. Ironing was often unnecessary or minimal with a cool iron.

Cotton items, broderie anglaise lace products for example were scratchy by comparison and need heavy ironing after lots of dampening down. Cotton items like knit jersey aertex interlock white cotton knickers or silk and merino mix knickers were comfortable in a Bridget Jones manner, but by the sixties considered rather old fashioned. However often they were the only natural fabric alternatives.

New pants were in Charmtrique left and Charmode right. Sears Catalogue made a great case for their specially made panties made to new Charmode specifications. The advert went to great length to explain that only fine knit fabrics were used and that both the nylon and rayon construction they used was run proof and strong.

The pants were wear-tested to prove the finer fit, and manufacturers claimed sizes were as accurate as dress sizes. This makes one wonder if the pants fit before this era was a fulsome as a Shalwar Kameez.

The advert above went on to explain that the Charmode pants were designed to fit smoothly with or without a girdle and that the new cut of what was then a short leg gave a pair of pants with less bulk and easy fit. One of the characteristics of nylon is that its fibres are hydrophobic, this has the undesirable effect of repelling perspiration, make the wearer feel uncomfortable in warm conditions.

Perspiration that cannot be wicked away by the fabric oxidises and causes odours. This underwear really did need daily washing. But manufacturers were quick to point out of the benefits too, as the catalogue promotion advertisement above shows, panty garments could be made very close fitting to the body and help create smoother lines beneath clothes.

The Mad Men look we all love today was based around good under foundation garments such as these shown. The pointed bra, the panty leg roll-on and the nylon lace bouffant net petticoat were the hidden part of the well groomed woman of the early 60s.

Women typically wore pants like these fancy nylon tricot briefs. At this time Lycra and Spandex were still in the laboratory, but hit the big time in mass manufacture in the mid sixties. The big fibre of the sixties had been nylon closely followed by Acrylic or Orlon in knitwear. A big selling point of nylon had been the pastel colours especially bright white, its drip dry nature and quick drying plus the bonus of a close stretch fit in the right fabric construction like the stretch lace pants below.

By the s totally nylon knickers were usual, and the all nylon gusset was in due course replaced by a double gusset and often a different fabric such as cotton or cotton jersey for greater hygiene and comfort. But the pretty lace fabrics that stretched and moulded to the body were novel when compared to utilitarian styles of the second world war rationing era.

The blue lace panties left were called briefs when they reached the waist and when cut lower they were mostly referred to as hip huggers. Nylon stretchy lace was used to make elongated pants that almost reached the knee. They were known as Long Johns, Demi Johns, winter warmers or pettipants. The just above knee pants were a practical solution in winter to keep legs warmer. They were also made in plain ribbed nylon knit fabric and trimmed with contrast lace.

Floral print versions were also de rigueur in a decade known for flower power. Right - Stretch Lace Pettipants - cs. By the s cotton gussets were added to nylon briefs for comfort and better hygiene. In this era various permutations on the bikini bottom took panties lower and lower down the hipline and higher and higher up the thigh. These were hipsters or hipster briefs and they featured leg variations from straight cut to high cut became usual.

Below Left - High waist green nylon panty briefs with applied lace c Below Right - Late s alternatives were these 'modern' hip huggers shown in an adverts from c Hipster styles of panties became fashionable in floral printed fabrics, bold colours and flesh toned knickers were the new must have. By the s, eco conscious superfine cotton jersey knickers were back in fashion, but so were slinky silk or polyester satin or crepe de chine French knickers dripping in lace.

The teddy an all-in-one body garment shown further up in the combinations section was a popular piece of lingerie alongside the revival of separate camisoles and lace embellished French Knickers. Designer knickers, which were very functional pieces in wash and wear materials, became usual with designer brand names suddenly getting attention.

Sloggi and Calvin Klein were popular panty brief names of the s to the extent of letting show the designer woven waistband. CK underwear became a known brand name worldwide as it was constantly advertised on the highly visible waistlines of men and women everywhere.

By this time a wide range of pant styles getting briefer and briefer had arrived. The cut of the leg once considered highline was now renamed low cut to accommodate an even more highly cut leg as shown left.

The brief was no longer a brief, it was a patch of fabric. Skimpy bits of fabric called tangas, thongs and strings merely covered private parts or sometimes barely covered the area and so made it necessary for extreme techniques of hair removal. The world today is only too familiar with waxing and G strings, once totally the province of strippers.

Now it became a norm for many consumers in the s particularly younger females who favoured low rise trousers and aped the starlets of erotic films. Previous to that, such styles were often kept for the privacy of the bedroom rather than everyday wear. Right - A Red Thong for by Matalan. A G-string has a string, whilst a thong has a small bit of fabric an inch or so wide coming to a y shape at the waistband.

The string parts of G-strings can be made of decorative pieces such as rhinestone belts and are often designed to be seen when worn. The initial acceptance of thongs was credited to the disappearance of visible panty lines when worn under trousers. In the early noughties they were worn under low trousers to be visible, but the look became passé as ladylike style and Mad Men fashion returned.

South American women favoured these styles long before they gained mass acceptance in Europe. Their popularity among young western women may be due to the fact that many simply cannot recall how similar these often visible G-strings appear to older women who compare them in their mind to the never to be seen elastic sanitary belts.

This was of course long before sanitary wear had wing wraps, were adhesive backed, or were replaced by tampon varieties. Pants can be pretty and are then thought of as lingerie, but they are also designed to be functional.

This pair of white briefs are knickers with a difference - the fabric has no hems and has no hemmed fabric edge but one that does not unravel nor show a ridge or visible panty line VPL beneath slinky fitting top garments. Knickers and their styles have always been a subject for fun and amusement in seaside postcards, cartoons and the butt of jokes about women who have let themselves go or lost interest in sex.

This has been emphasised even more in the past 20 years as some styles of knickers have moved through stages that have reduced the amount of fabric needed to make an item so small it can appear to consist of nothing more than a bit of strapping reminiscent of a 's sanitary belt.

In the UK in Marks and Spencer the clothing store had coverage on one third of the British lingerie market. This made it then the first stop in Britain when a consumer sought underwear, with the average woman buying 8 pairs of knickers a year and the store selling 60 pairs a minute. In the UK Marks and Spencer then was selling 25 million pairs of knickers every year, with 4.

Apparently Marks and Spencer's underwear pants is one of the things UK ex-pats miss most when living abroad. So shop for your knickers online easily. The admiring glances they get - well that's up to you And finally if you came to this page seeking information about bloomers then you need to know more about Mrs Amelia Bloomer Mrs Bloomer promoted the wearing Bloomers and bloomer suits and this is detailed more in my page on Victorian Rational Dress.

You can also see other versions of Victorian and Edwardian bloomer fashion history on the early swimwear page. Page Added June Buy my latest ebook and learn how to recognise changes between Paniers, crinolines, bustles, bras and corsets and the affect this has on the outer silhouette of female costume. A look at Rational Dress Reform, the contribution of Mrs. Jaeger to the resultant cycling and swimming dress. New girls shows up hourly, so you should visit us as often as possible.

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