Ceremonial dress Court diplomatic academic , etc.
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History of Men's Suits Wardrobe. Finest Black or White Wedding Suits. Why Buy From Italsuit? Right Look, Right Suit. Although many examples of waistcoats worn with a double-breasted jacket can be found from the s to the s, that would be unusual today one point of a double-breasted jacket being, it may be supposed, to eliminate the waistcoat.
Traditionally, the bottom button of a waistcoat is left undone; like the vents in the rear of a jacket, this helps the body bend when sitting. Some waistcoats can have lapels, others do not. Suit trousers are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from the s to s, before the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd trousers was seen as an alternative to a full suit.
Trouser width has varied considerably throughout the decades. After , trousers began to be tapered in at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the s.
By the s and s, a more slim look had become popular. In the s, suit makers offered a variety of styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In the s these styles disappeared in favour of tapered, slim-legged trousers.
One variation in the design of trousers is the use or not of pleats. The most classic style of trouser is to have two pleats, usually forward, since this gives more comfort sitting and better hang standing. The style originally descended from the exaggeratedly widened Oxford bags worn in the s in Oxford, which, though themselves short-lived, began a trend for fuller fronts.
However, at various periods throughout the last century, flat fronted trousers with no pleats have been worn, and the swing in fashions has been marked enough that the more fashion-oriented ready-to-wear brands have not produced both types continuously. Turn-ups on the bottom of trousers, or cuffs, were initially popularised in the s by Edward VII ,  and were popular with suits throughout the s and s.
They have always been an informal option, being inappropriate on all formalwear. Other variations in trouser style include the rise of the trouser. This was very high in the early half of the 20th century, particularly with formalwear, with rises above the natural waist,  to allow the waistcoat covering the waistband to come down just below the narrowest point of the chest.
Though serving less purpose, this high height was duplicated in the daywear of the period. Since then, fashions have changed, and have rarely been that high again with styles returning more to low-rise trousers, even dropping down to have waistbands resting on the hips.
Other changing aspects of the cut include the length, which determines the break, the bunching of fabric just above the shoe when the front seam is marginally longer than height to the shoe's top.
Some parts of the world, such as Europe, traditionally opt for shorter trousers with little or no break, while Americans often choose to wear a slight break. A final major distinction is made in whether the trousers take a belt or braces suspenders. While a belt was originally never worn with a suit, the forced wearing of belts during wartime years caused by restrictions on use of elastic caused by wartime shortages contributed to their rise in popularity, with braces now much less popular than belts.
When braces were common, the buttons for attaching them were placed on the outside of the waistband, because they would be covered by a waistcoat or cardigan, but now it is more frequent to button on the inside of the trouser.
Trousers taking braces are rather different in cut at the waist, employing inches of extra girth and also height at the back. The split in the waistband at the back is in the fishtail shape. Those who prefer braces assert that, because they hang from the shoulders, they always make the trousers fit and hang exactly as they should, while a belt may allow the trouser waist to slip down on the hips or below a protruding midsection, and requires constant repositioning; also, they allow, indeed work best with, a slightly looser waist which gives room for natural expansion when seated.
Suit trousers, also known as dress pants in the US, are a style of trousers intended as formal or semi-formal wear.
They are often made of either wool or polyester  although many other synthetic and natural textiles are used and may be designed to be worn with a matching suit jacket. Suit trousers often have a crease in the front of each pant leg, and may have one or more pleats.
Suit trousers can be worn at many formal and semi-formal occasions combined with a shirt that has no tie and a more relaxed fashion, which can be considered smart casual dress.
As an alternative to trousers, breeches or knickers in variations of English where this does not refer to underwear may be worn with informal suits, such as tweed. These are shorter, descending to just below the knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, such as shooting or golf. The length and design is closely related to the plus-fours and plus-sixes etc.
They are usually designed to be worn with long socks meeting just below the knee, but riding breeches, worn with long boots such as top boots , are long enough to meet the boot and display no sock.
Accessories for suits include neckties , shoes , wristwatches and pocket watches , pocket squares , cufflinks , tie clips , tie tacks, tie bars, bow ties , lapel pins , and hats. Throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, Italy has been a leader in the design of men's suits.
Typical fabrics include lightweight flannel, a wool and mohair blend, and linen or chino cloth for hot weather. Elsewhere in the Mediterranean , suits are considered impractical without constant air conditioning. As a result, most non-conservative businesses, regardless of size or wealth, tend to use casual clothes even in formal meetings. Similarly, some Israeli branches of American firms tend to imitate their American counterparts' style of clothing. In 20th century China, the Communist regime encouraged citizens to wear the Mao suit due to its egalitarian and utilitarian design.
Although less common now than it once was, the Mao suit is still in widespread use in rural areas. After independence of India , there was a backlash against Western fashions due to their association with the previous colonialist regime.
Instead, professional Indian men began wearing the five button Nehru suit , made from khadi to support the local textile industry. In the tropical Philippines, a former colony of the United States of America, a suit is called terno and jacket that comes with it, is called amerikana.
Because of the hot tropical climate, this formal wear is worn only when necessary, including formal, social or business events. Filipinos rarely wear a suit, and the youth would probably wear one only to a high school or college prom , in which case it might be rented.
At any occasion where a suit is worn, it would also be acceptable to wear a long-sleeved or a short-sleeved barong tagalog , the national dress of the Philippines. Because wearing a suit conveys a respectable image, many people wear suits during the job interview process. Interview suits are frequently composed of wool or wool-blend fabric, with a solid or pin stripe pattern. In modern society, men's suits have become less common as an outfit of daily wear.
During the s, driven in part by the meteoric rise of newly successful technology companies with different cultural attitudes, the prevailing management philosophy of the time moved in favour of more casual attire for employees; the aim was to encourage a sense of openness and egalitarianism.
Traditional business dress as an everyday style is generally limited to middle- and upper-level corporate management now sometimes collectively referred to as "suits" ,  and to the professions particularly law.
Casual dress has also become common in Western academic institutions, with traditional business attire falling in popularity. For many men who do not wear suits for work, particularly in Western society, wearing a suit is reserved for special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, and other more formal social events.
Hence, because they are not a daily outfit for most men, they are often viewed as being "stuffy" and uncomfortable. The combination of a tie, belt and vest can be tight and restrictive compared to contemporary casual wear, especially when these are purchased at minimal cost and quality for rare occasions, rather than being made to be worn comfortably. This tendency became prevalent enough that the Christian Science Monitor reported that a suit combined with a necktie and slacks was "a design that guarantees that its wearer will be uncomfortable.
This was seen as a liberation from the conformity of earlier periods and occurred concurrently with the women's liberation movement. Also remarkable is that the suit now frequently appears in Rock, Heavy Metal and Gothic happenings, even though such groups were once known for a rather rebellious tradition of clothing.
Artists and bands such as Nick Cave , Marilyn Manson , Blutengel and Akercocke are known for the use of formal clothing in music videos and stage performances. The suit also appears when fans dress for styles such as Lolita, Victorian and Corporate Gothic. The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the button stance , a measure of how high the buttons are in relation to the natural waist.
In some now unusual styles where the buttons are placed high, the tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance. Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here. Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned.
When there is more than one functional buttonhole as in a traditional six-on-two arrangement , only one button need be fastened; the wearer may elect to fasten only the bottom button, in order to present a longer line a style popularised by Prince George, Duke of Kent.
Single-breasted suit coats may be either fastened or unfastened. In two-button suits the bottom button is traditionally left unfastened except with certain unusual cuts of jacket, e. Legend has it that King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit as well as waistcoat undone. When fastening a three-button suit, the middle button is fastened, and the top one sometimes, but the bottom is traditionally not designed to be. Although in the past some three-button jackets were cut so that all three could be fastened without distorting the drape, this is not the case.
A four-button suit is untraditional and uncommon. The one button suit has regained some popularity it is also one of the classic styles of Savile Row tailoring. The button should always be fastened while standing. With a single-breasted suit, it is proper to have the buttons unfastened while sitting down to avoid an ugly drape.
Working with neckties is very much a matter of personal taste, but in conservative terms there are some basic guidelines. Ties should always be darker than the wearer's shirt. The background colour of the tie should not be the same as that of the shirt, while the foreground of the tie should contain the colour of the shirt and thereby "pick up" on the colour of the shirt.
Ideally, the tie should also integrate the colour of the suit in the same way. Generally, simple or subdued patterns are preferred for conservative dress, though these are terms with a wide range of interpretation. During the late s and early s, it became popular to match the necktie colour with the shirt a "monochromatic" look popularised by TV personality Regis Philbin or even wearing a lighter coloured tie with a darker shirt, usually during formal occasions.
A light blue shirt with a blue tie that is darker in its colour is also common. A Four-in-hand, Half-Windsor, or Windsor is generally the most appropriate with a suit, particularly by contemporary guidelines. Once properly knotted and arranged, the bottom of the tie can extend anywhere from the wearer's navel level, to slightly below the waistband.
The narrow end should not extend below the wide end, though this can occasionally be seen to be acceptable with thin ties. In the s, it was fashionable for men as well as women to wear scarves with a suit in a tied knot either inside a shirt as an Ascot or under the collar as would be worn like a tie. It did however make a small comeback by and some famous stars wear them. Although some wore scarves back in the s, ties were still preferred among business workers. Jacket Vents see all Jacket Vents.
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